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Thursday, 30 October 2025

The Endless Plains, Chapter 31: An Unexpected Ending.

This may come as a surprise to many, but we have only been here for two weeks. 

It came as a surprise to us also. We seem to have seen a lifetime's worth of nature, an incredible array of wondrous wildlife, an astounding assortment of beauty, an enormous variety of ways to die, but, reluctantly, now it was time to leave this glorious land.

Our last view from around our camp was not exactly magnificent. Dawn blossoming over burnt-out savannah is not exactly picturesque. Humans eh?

Arriving, for the last time, at Crossing Zero, we searched for wildlife, but instead we were in for a shock.

Ian had spotted movement in the far distance over the other side of the Mara. There was something there.

He said it looked human.

I, of course, could see nothing. With binoculars and five minutes of "Left a bit. Right a bit" I eventually saw a form creeping through the undergrowth. With my extended-multiplied-super-telephoto-zoom mega-lens, I took a picture of a far distant speck.

Cropping, magnifying, photoshopping and blaspheming, eventually a form evolved...

It was a bloody poacher. Bloody being the operative word. 

In his hand his trusty poison-tipped spear. This was not used to kill animals, it was just for self preservation. To kill his prey he uses snares. Snares that entrap all manner of wildlife. It is these very snares that have amputated so many elephants trunks.

We called the rangers and awaited any response. We were later informed that, yes, they were tracking him, but have yet to find anyone stupid enough to risk giving up their lives to confront him.

These are dangerous people. They are from the Kamba town mentioned in Chapter 17. They are renowned for being from one of the most dangerous tribes of Africa.

Just to be clear, the entire future of the tribes around here depends on their one major asset: wildlife. To kill it off for short term gain is a surefire way of destroying their children's future, as well as causing more suffering than even the most cruel natural predators.

They have helped drive towards extinction the very wealth on which their future depends.

Sympathy for the local tribes thus reduced, it was time for us to move on.

We passed by some elephants contemplating traversing the Mara, but not today.

Better luck next time.

Instead, my morning coffee called me.

Followed by a farewell photo.

After a slow breakfast we checked out some more of the Mara on our way to the airstrip.

Lo and behold. A growing herd of wildebeest were thinking of giving us a farewell show.

This was a very relaxed experience, much more typical of other's experiences of crossings.

In other words, wait and see. Then wait some more.

To help you understand, look long and hard at this photograph. After ten minutes, tell me. Did you see any movement? No? Exactly like the real thing.

Only, after half an hour, they decide to move to another part of the Mara where the same exercise is repeated. 

Again and again.

We spent our last of our morning doing this. A form of withdrawal. 

We were running out of time. Our plane would soon be arriving to take us to the Kilimanjaro Processing Centre where our luggage would by thoroughly digested by various machines of dubious usefulness.

We were just about to leave when there was a sudden change.

The wildebeest were becoming more agitated, calling out. But none were prepared to commit to being the first to commit suicide.

However, on our side of the river was a lone calf. Somehow it had been separated from its family and was calling out plaintively. Response was heard from across the water.

Surely this would spur them on to risk the obviously crocodile infested water to get to their calf?

No bloody way. They were staying put.

This gave the brave young calf no other option. It leapt into the water all by itself!

Apart from the pre-mentioned obvious crocodiles.

Absolute insanity! Or was it love?

It felt as if the whole world was holding its breath. 

Surely there was no way it could make it alive?

Surely the local crocodiles would gratefully accept this munchy morsel?

Beyond all hope, it reached the other side in altogether one piece. No bits were missing.

The herd absorbed the calf into its mass and looked with wry amusement...

...at the giant crocodile just below them at the waters edge.

The calf had survived. The herd had survived. We had survived.

And we all lived happily ever after.

The End



Well. Maybe.






Wednesday, 29 October 2025

The Endless Plains, Chapter 30: Fear.

 Who would have thought that this bright afternoon would turn to the dark side?

Even seeing this Klipspringers could not hold it back.

And oh look. Yet more wildebeest considering their fate.

My god, there were a lot of them.

They did the usual thing of pretending to cross, going back, going across, going down, going bonkers.

Some of them decided that leaping down a cliff face was a good way of surviving.

More and more did the same thing, as is their wont. Going back was not a simple option. The pressure of the mass of bodies built up behind those on the water's edge, giving those at the front little option. Sink or swim.

Decision made, let's go for a dip.

They set off in single file. 

Basic mistake.

When you are on the outside of a herd crossing the Mara you know that your life expectancy is lowest.

In single file, everyone is on the outside. Opportunity knocks.

This crocodile had a lot to choose from.

It had picked its prey. 

Another croc had different ideas. A head shot.

And yet another crocodile entered the fray.

This was one enormous bastard.

One bite and there went half a young wildebeest.

This was one heroic wildebeest. It forced its way towards the banking.

There was but a slim chance it would make it.

But no chance when a second crocodile enters stage left.

These jaws engulfed the wildebeest's head.

This is the end of life.

The first wildebeest was still attempting escape.

But once more the murder squad teamed up against it.

One last breathe...

There were thousands of wildebeest that succeeded in crossing the Mara that afternoon.

But for some, their existence came to a horrible halt.

...

Having seen a little too much of the dark side, we headed south towards our camp. 

We stopped by a rocky outcropping just below where some lions were soaking up the last rays of the sun.

So. There we were, just below them.

In an open-topped truck.

This, I think, was the only time during the entire fortnight of totally crazy stuff, that I felt a small twinge of fear.

Thankfully these oh so powerful beasts let us leave unharmed. Their stomachs were probably full of previous tourists.

...

Just before the sun gave up on us, we spotted this sleeping leopard. 

We left him in peace, arriving back at camp on time for once, so that we could pack ready for our departure the following day.

Despite the fire, all our belongings were still intact and uncooked. 

The following day was to be our last morning in the Serengeti. 

It was to have an unexpected ending.

Tuesday, 28 October 2025

The Endless Plains, Chapter 29: No Worries.

Our last full day in the Serengeti. 

Some of you may be very relieved to hear that.

Dawn in the Serengeti.

These are the only photos of impalas that I have put in these blogs. Impalas and Gazelles are everywhere in this part of the Serengeti, and as they are the basic food for the larger predators, you kinda get used to them. Urgh, I don't mean to eat, I mean to look at!!

So: two special photos of them to finish on.

As the daylight arrived, we once more followed the Mara upstream. (If you can follow upstream...)

We spent some time in the company of a herd of elephants. You should try it sometime.

They seemed quite comfortable with us pointing cameras at them. Probably an improvement on shotguns.

There was a training class going on.

This guy was showing how to dig up tasty roots with your tusks.

Now your go.

Deeper.

That was just too exhausting.

Time for a hug.

No hugs for me - I'm British.

Ok guys, down to the river.

Uh. Maybe not.

Then, not long after these elephantine gymnastics was this now familiar scene:

Of course, it was one of those crossings that we were told was not going to happen. 

Were they going to go?

Nope.

Erm... maybe...

Yes!

And they're off!

Thousands of them.

Too many to count. Yes, I tried.

The prediction of zero crossings was now a total mockery.

And oh look, another young calf about to be...

...free.

Was this our last crossing to watch? 

Was this the last horrendous risk of diabolical death that we would witness?

You are allowed three guesses... (click here for the answer)