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Tuesday 20 December 2022

Newsletter 2022


Seasons Greetings to one and all. Here are links to our our long awaited (well, approximately twelve months) Newsletter for 2022:  

Newsletter in English

Infolettre en français.


As an added bonus...


Here's a video of about a very special young woman...


Next, the video of our African Extravaganza:

Now, a video showing a different age...

And finally a random railway special...

Also, don't forget the book of the year here (Amazon UK) et ici (Amazon Fr). Or just type 'The Bloody Mara' in the Amazon of your choice. The Kindle version is available now, hard and paperback versions available in the new year. I bet you can't wait. All profits (hehe) go to the African Wildlife Foundation.

Thursday 8 September 2022

A Fortnight in the Wild: Chapter 24

Out of Africa

Previous Chapter 'A Fruitless Search' here.

Well, the moment had finally arrived.  It was time to tear ourselves away from this unique, enormous, beautiful but troubled continent. 

Saying that, try pointing out a continent that isn't troubled. 

We rose very early (to everyone's surprise, including mine) to make a final attempt at some sightings and to give our best wishes to as many animals as we could. Except the crocs of course.

We had meticulously packed our precious bags and we were ready to leave. 

Ah, not quite. Some quirk of human physiology kept my significant other a prisoner in the 'choo' (w.c.) for a while, allowing the sun to creep up on us and to get our first and only glimpse of the camp in anything close to daylight.

I watched the sunrise from the local pool. Forget all the dire water shortages, a swimming pool is definitely a priority for us safari types. 

Not.

I mean, seriously, who goes to all the trouble and all the cost to get to the middle of absolutely everywhere and nowhere baby, to a unique environment full of incredible wildlife... to have a swim? Unless you're an old croc I suppose. Ok, good point, hold the snide comments.

When finally Annick had been relieved, we were ready to set off on our farewell tour of the Northern Serengeti, wending our way to our rendezvous at the airstrip. 

The farewells started with the staff, all local and all utterly brilliant. Our guide Ian was, of course, to take us to the airstrip. Let's hope he didn't lose any bags this time.

The sky was intent on putting on a farewell show for us on our final morning.

We made our way through a rocky area in the hope of seeing a final leopard. What? No leopard? Hmmm, not a good start to our end. Instead we saw one of their favourite aperitifs. A klipspringer.

But no leopards.

The rocks themselves however were quite artistic, if best avoided in a high wind.

The hot-air balloons were at it again, searching the skies for wild-life and wild-dollars. This, too, is best avoided in high winds. Or if you want to keep any of your hard-earned savings.

We did meet some of our old friends and acquaintances. We wished farewell and good luck to this year's Mr Ugly Africa contestant.

And the Mara? Were we to see yet another stupendous mind-boggling crossing?

Not this time.

The wildebeest had merely come to the river for a drink, to admire the hippos and to wish us God's speed. Then they went happily off in the wrong direction. 

You gotta love 'em.

Instead a little bee-eater kept us amused by making it as difficult as possible to capture a decent shot.

Woah! Hang on a minute! They're back!

Nope. They've gone again.

Some vultures dropped by to give their regards and wave farewell banners.

This vulture was now to set off on its yearly trip to meet us in the pyrenees. My suspicion is it will get there before us and with all its baggage intact.

We stopped to bid our farewells to a memory of elephants.

These guys had a strange ghostly appearance.

They were a very light grey due to a fine coating of all the cinders that their grazing had been turned into. Their guts were presumably turning black.

As they wandered past our jeep this younger member took time to have a good sniff.

He wasn't impressed.

This youngster stopped to give us a quick farewell cabaret.





Spot the giraffe.

Gotcha!

And then we saw, yes folks, another leopard!

This is probably the best sighting of a leopard in all the time we were there.

We got right underneath his tree. Right underneath him. Hopefully he did not have our same need for a pee...

A very proud beast.

A very sleepy beast.

A very comfortable beast.

This tree was just the right shape for him.

The perfect lounger.

Our final farewells included another cat-haven tree.

These two speed-kings were not in performance mode.

We finally arrived at the gates of the airstrip, to be welcomed by this baboon and...

...a giraffe who were both waiting at the entrance. You don't get that kind of service in Gatwick.

We said our final emotional 'Kwa Heri's to Ian. He had proven himself once more to be the world's best guide, as these twenty-four chapters have born witness. Sadly he did receive two demerits for not finding us those elusive caracal and rhino. I guess this means we are going to have to force ourselves to go back next year...

We then squeezed inside the giant vibrator, all bags intact despite Ian's best efforts at bush massage and took our leave, heading for Kilimanjaro.

In Kilimanjaro there were the usual horrendous queues. Queues for handing over our precious cargo where I bid a farewell to our two hold bags. Queues for unpacking all our carefully packed hand luggage for intimate checking, repacking, then unpacking again. Queues for paperwork. Queues for passport control. 

Brain numbing.

After all that, batteries needed recharging....

We then finally entered a giant viral incubator for our long haul flight heading for Amsterdam.

I was content in the knowledge that, due to my bag being tagged, all luggage was safe and sound in the hold. This was a relief after the chaos of Kilimanjaro airport. We would arrive eight sleepless hours later for a transfer in the heart of civilisation.

Wrong. It was Schiphol airport. One of the busiest airports in the world and undoubtedly much more chaotic than Kilimanjaro.

Schiphol brings a whole new meaning to the word 'queues'.

Luckily our flight had been delayed by six hours. Just enough time to get through. My numbed brain was threatening to flatline. Thankfully there were plenty of local caffeine drip lines available. 

So much for civilisation. 

Upon arrival in Toulouse we made our sluggish way to baggage collection. I checked the tag, my precious backpack was quite clearly still in Amsterdam. Another queue, this time to attempt communication with a computer screen to suggest that the truck load of luggage in Amsterdam was in the wrong place.

Grrr.

My backpack did thankfully arrive at home, a day later than us, totally intact.

I gave it another huge hug.

---

Wednesday 7 September 2022

A Fortnight in the Wild: Chapter 23

 A Fruitless Search

Last Chapter 'Survival' here

We woke almost, it seemed, before collapsing into sleep. This was to be our tenth day immersed in the Wild. We had spotted so much wildlife, there seemed little left to see. We had already witnessed a dozen crossings, surely a world-beating achievement. We had seen more leopards than you could shake a stick at. 

Although shaking a stick at a leopard is not highly recommended.

And we had captured sunrise photos galore. 

So let's add some more...

This morning's rising sun was special. Special out of a group of special dawns. The first rays picked out our first and our foremost wildlife on this trip. Silhouettes of ubiquitous wildebeest, the ever-present gnu.

Then the sun was eclipsed behind a moving mountain.

Then rested a moment in its ascent behind a convenient fig tree.

Magical.

Our goal today was to see those animals that had so far escaped our prodigious luck. The rhino and the caracal. For this we were to travel some distance into areas where no man dares to tread. We sought out the help of the local rangers whose job was to keep a close eye on the very few rhinos left and to make sure that some poverty stricken locals weren't conned into killing these giants for their tightly packed nasal hair.

Ian was close friends with some of the rangers, who were more than happy to help us out. They advised us where to go (areas that most guests never see) and promised to contact us if they sighted any of these timid giants that day.

On our way to the rangers camp we dropped in on a local pride. 

They were not going to provide us with any entertainment so we quickly moved on. After all, we wanted rhino. We wanted caracal. We were to be disappointed.

As we searched the local ravines we spotted no rhinos, no caracal, but a Martial Eagle spotted us...

...and followed us for a while.

After avoiding the usual road blocks, we headed towards the Mara.

We had actually, it seems, just missed a crossing. We were told that all the wildebeest had already successfully passed across, leaving behind a few obstinate zebra.

We were not so sure. After studying the behaviour of the local hippos, we thought something was off.

Then a head appeared in the river next to us.

"Strange" we thought. What's a wildebeest doing taking a morning bath in such a dangerous place? He had a kind of pleading look in his eyes.

Then he moved. Quickly. He started to whoosh around in circles with unbelievable speed. 

This was like something out of 'Jaws'.

And then we saw why. He was not propelling himself, he was held in the jaws of a monster.

He was once more turned around. And we could see his back. At least, the bits of his back that were still there.

This powerful monster was in full control. The wildebeest stood no chance. Best get it over with quick.

The gnu gave up.

The croc was left there in apparent bliss, with a grin as wide as an elephants backside.

We moved on from this disturbing encounter and stopped a little further away and alongside a sand-river to take our lunch. Eating next to a slurping corpse is not generally good for the appetite. I prefer my meat not to slurp.

We continued all day with our search. We had seen few cheetahs in our quest so far, but here was a lone individual.

He appeared healthy, but on closer inspection it was clear he had problems with his paw. One damaged claw and one claw ripped out. Not a kind injury to an animal that relies on being fleet of foot.

He clearly objected to my clinical examination of him, so he walked off in a huff, showing us is rear end for further study. No world-beating willy there...

We had spent much of the day on a fruitless search for rhinos. Even the rangers had not seen hide nor hair of them for several days. It's amazing how something so big can be so difficult to spot. One reason for this is, of course, that there are so bloody few of them, and those that are left live in fear of the gun.

The sun was heading down, and trying to break through some unexpected clouds. There was heavy rain over there in Kenya. 

We did find a large pride of lions in our search for rhinos. They had a fresh kill of the stripy variety and were making a meal of it.

Others were playing...

...or fighting. It's difficult to tell the difference.

Another sneaked of with a prime cut.

While the head butcher was hard at work...

...other members of the family were happy to roll...

...and tumble...

...and chase each other endlessly.

We finally had to give up our search for the rhino and caracal. We had spent much of our last day in the Wild on this fruitless search. 

On our return journey from the outer reaches, we went into a rocky area and tried to spot the odd leopard in its favourite phallic rocky domain.

But this day was a day with little luck. 

Just before dark we spotted another cheetah who had recently succeeded in his shopping trip.

The sun was now trying to set through the clouds of burning bushes...

...which had left vast areas blackened.

As we approached Lamai for the last time...

...we could see the blackened ground that bore witness to the fires that had tried to engulf us just two nights before. Plus a few thousand wildebeest.

Our last night in Africa.


Next (and last!) Chapter 'Out of Africa'