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Saturday, 21 December 2019

Sura ya Kumi na Tano - Simba wa Serengeti

Chapter Fifteen - Lions of the Serengeti

The lion is truly King in the Serengeti. Huge, powerful, vicious and without equal.
They are the apex predator in Nature.
This is a young male. He has yet to prove his worth, although, frankly, he looks pretty impressive to me.
Being impressive can, I'm sure you'll agree, get a little tiring...
Despite their ferociousness, they form strong packs, family groups, of up to twenty individuals. No other cat does this.

Like many cats, lions have a strong affinity with trees. Youngsters can often be seen up in them...
From here, they can see the world,
friend and foe alike. They have few friends...
However, the older guys prefer to just lie around underneath,
occasionally going to the effort of getting up, walking...
... to another tree.
Then lying down again,
Another siesta.
Trees are also good for dining out underneath. This pack has killed a buffalo. That is no small achievement.
 This handsome male, who probably took no part in the killing, has had his fill of raw meat.
 And gets in some siesta practice.
One of the killers decides that there is not enough shelter from the beating sun. She gets up, wanders over to our truck,
and spies some excellent shelter underneath us. It is at times like this that one considers the wisdom of having all the windows and roof open...
She stayed put. She would not move. We could not move. We did not know which direction to move the truck without risking injury to her and perhaps being on the receiving end of a very angry lioness. Strangely, none of us were keen on getting out to take a look at exactly where she was. She had just fed and might decide to stay there for a day or two.

Mind you, better underneath us than on top of us!

We needed help. Thankfully we had a functioning radio (not all safari trucks do!) and, after some patient, slightly apprehensive waiting, help arrived. We lived another day. My blood pressure eventually returned to normal.

The male is the boss. They tend to leave the killing to the females, their job is to guard their domain. And that is exactly what this formidable beast was doing when we found it.
Some other lions had wandered into his kingdom, and he set about seeing them off.
 He surveyed all from his throne on a rocky outcropping.
All this power, all this aggression, all this impressive behaviour has but one end. To reproduce. To produce the next generation of killers. To survive. 
And this lions have done.

And we will see the results in the next chapter:


Friday, 20 December 2019

Sura ya Kumi na Nne - Paka na Mbwa wa Serengeti

Chapter Fourteen - The Cats and Dogs of the Serengeti

We spent much of our week in the Serengeti dodging storms. Ian, our guide, was immensely proud of his grasp of the English language and proved his fluency by frequently pointing out where it was raining 'cats and dogs'. Well, that certainly doesn't translate well into French, but in Swahili it's 'paka na mbwa' ... hang on, less of the language lessons Hyde, back to the animals...

In the Serengeti of course, it only rains cats. Cats are everywhere. One thing we saw a lot of was cats. Cats of all shapes and sizes. I've already given up five chapters to 'em. And there's more to come...

The cat we really wanted to see is called the Caracal, a kind of lynx. In this we failed miserably. The weather was not on ours side.

As recompense, between dodging storms, we spotted three of these solitary creatures:
The Serval Cat

We managed to spend some time with them, something I haven't managed to do before. They conveniently stayed by the road, as by the time we saw them, off-loading was tantamount to drowning.
They are small cats, but still twice the size of the domestic moggy. Except, maybe, ours...
They are constantly on the hunt for rodents, insects etc, hunting both day and night, unlike our cat (smÖke) that seems to prefer sleeping, although does sometimes proudly bring us the occasional gift.
Their legs are long compared to their bodies, the longest (proportionally) of any cat.
To catch their prey, they tend to leap up high, often to two metres. SmÖke only does that when leaping on me at siesta time.
Their markings are beautiful.
They hunt by sense of sound, a bit like smÖke when he hears the cat biscuits.
They seem to wear a constant frown, unlike smÖke who sports a constant 'I'm God' expression.

Dogs? On the dog side of things we did not do too well. 

I would have loved to have seen the Painted Wolves again, as we did last year. (See the blog here.) In that blog I mentioned that one of the two packs of painted wolves (African wild dogs) that lived in the Serengeti had been killed by the Masai. All of them poisoned. They have now killed the only other pack. There are now no painted wolves in the Serengeti.

Us humans have a lot to answer for, even these so called 'idyllic' tribes...

And so, instead of dogs, we'll have to make do with something similar. 

The Hyena.

This is, in actual fact, another fail. The hyena is genetically closer to the cat than the dog!! 

Never mind, I'll carry on regardless...
Although generally accepted as being ugly when compared to our hounds, I have to say that, in my long career, I've seen plenty of much-loved dogs that looked a lot worse than this guy.
 When they are youngsters, they do look kinda cute...
 Not bad huh? A hair style similar to my very own.
 As adults, they are known as one of the major scavengers in nature. Does that ring any bells?
They even eat bones. Not bad, but my dog can also eat underwear...

They wait by the diner table waiting for scraps to fall.
 In this case, the scrap is rather big. Even then he has to guard it against the vultures.
However, they are not just scavengers. Packs of them can be quite large, we saw packs of over twenty. They hunt as a coordinated group and can bring down fully grown wildebeest.
 As in this case...
Just look at that full stomach. Although the wildebeest seems to have lost a bit of weight.

They also tend towards romance...
 Yeah. Right...

Well, that's nearly enough about dogs and cats. Except. There is one cat left that we have hardly mentioned.

The King.

In the next chapter...




Thursday, 19 December 2019

Sura ya Kumi na Tatu - Twiga wa Serengeti

Chapter Thirteen - The Giraffes of the Serengeti

There's something really strange about giraffes, apart from the obvious "How the hell did that ever happen?"

And I don't mean all their biological facts and figures that are spewed out ad nauseam by guides every time you see one. (Things like the number of their neck vertebrae.)
No. Not that. I mean the fact that, despite being truly big, despite being really tall, they can sometimes be really difficult to see!

The guide calls out "Giraffe! Over there!"

Everyone looks. "Where?"

"Next to that tree!"
"What tree?"
They just tend to blend in.
Looking like part of a tree.

Part of a tree that pulls silly faces.
The other thing about giraffes is how difficult I find it to take an interesting photo of them.
You'd think that such a weird animal would make for really interesting photos.
Well. Maybe this one.
This does demonstrate the sort of thing you can do with a tongue that is up to half a metre long...
This too.
With the sun setting in the west, we'll head off home before the rain beats us to it,


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