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Sunday 31 May 2015

How Blue is my Valley?

Another week in Wales with its abundance of colour, verdant growth, family and friends. The woods behind our cottage are brimming with abundant bluebells…

Although photographing them in dull light with Gill & Paul’s manic dog Sadie constantly photo-bombing is far from easy.

We started the week with a walk on the wild side in the Brecon Beacons with Jon and Lisa, hunting caves and waterfalls.

Close to the edge…

… down by the water.

The local flush toilets were somewhat basic…

so Lisa holds on…

Then back to the cottage where the garden has burst into multiple vivid colours.

The cottage is soooo relaxing. Even the visit of two Jehovah’s Hypocrites didn’t dampen proceedings. It is always amusing to speak to those who can deny a massive body of evidence in favour of a dusty old book.

Starting the conversation with “Are you a spiritual man?” probably didn’t help their cause. Then coming out with the old “Evolution is just a theory” line led me to respond with the usual “Gravity is just a theory, so go and prove your faith by jumping off a cliff” routine…

Maybe they were not converted to the church of the Flying Spaghetti Monster, but I did get one to promise that he would read a real book on evolution AND actually read ALL that book of theirs, including the gory bits.

The other guy wasn’t so inclined to rational discourse, but I did adversely affect his blood pressure, especially when I benevolently forgave him for becoming angry……

We also met with another born again soul. This time it was Carl, back from the North American colonies to visit his old haunts before once more going back to his new home in the near-Arctic.

It was a busy week, with the usual crowd giving us a send-off evening of the usual depravity. Back to France to recover…

The valley may be green, but blue rules ok?

… until the next time …

Phil

Tuesday 12 May 2015

The Hermit Hunter: The Cabin in the Woods

This soon to be released follow up to ‘The Troll Hunter’, is based on a true story. Here, for the first time, is the full adventure with shots taken from the film.

May contain spoilers…

Many years ago, there was a revolution.

The 1960’s and early 1970’s were a time of peace, love and flower power. Apart, that is, from the bits not involving love, peace and flowers, of which, come to think of it, there were quite a few…

This was the generation that would change the world, that would halt its materialistic excesses, that would make weed a vital part of life, that would bring karma to all mankind.

That worked well didn’t it?

As time passed, most left the path of righteousness writ deep by those such a Bob Dylan (“I’ll stand on the ocean until I start sinking”) and Jimi Hendrix (“never mind, I’ve still got my guitar”). Instead of Nirvana and a need for weed, they discovered Motörhead and a need for filthy lucre.

And so it goes.

Except, that is, for the very few. A small number of this Hippie generation discarded the mainstream mantra, and headed for the hills to start a new life, a life without the constraints of modern living, a life grasped from the soil itself.

After some months or occasionally years, most of these naïve souls discovered that such a life lived this way was not so easy. No gas, no electricity, no TV, no phones, no episodes of 'the Voice’. Just labour.

A few, a very few of them stayed the course. What of them? Are they really still there? Do they really exist or are they simply a story made up by parents to scare their children? Hidden well away from society, are these very few still scraping an existence from nature, their own children now grown and flown the nest?

This story is about the search for those few rare souls. Are they myth or memory? This is the story of the 'Hermit Hunter’…

We had heard rumours of a family of hermits hidden deep in the Pyrénéen mountains. Planning our hunt for them took years. First we needed a base camp. This we found near an outpost called le Couéou, meaning literally the arse-hole of nowhere. A clue for sure.

 

Our first attempt ended in disaster. Mistakenly thinking that we could find such reclusive men by car, we found ourselves trapped high on a mountain track in thick snow. (The full story here).

 

Realising that a different approach was called for, we purchased a quad motorbike and readied ourselves with a final meal.

 

Setting off in the early hours we initially found nothing but dead-ends. The forest tracks seem to be everywhere but go nowhere…

 

..although nowhere in itself can be quite beautiful…

 

Then, after travelling what seemed hours along a narrow track with vertiginous drops and crazy views…

 

…we found another clue…

 

Surely this totem meant we were nearing our goal?

Without warning (apart from Ian crying “Help!” from the back of the quad), we stumbled upon a hidden shack.

 

Approaching with care, we searched for clues as to the cabin’s inhabitants. It was certainly very remote. Access nearly impossible without special care and suicidal tendencies.

The first results were encouraging. The hygiene facilities were somewhat basic…

 

However, upon sneakily entering the cabin, we noticed certain clues that forced us to reevaluate our discovery.

The carton of milk on the table seemed unlikely to come directly from a cow.

The camera gear on the table appeared not to be homemade.

The table itself was indeed a pool table.

Finally, the cabin owner who at that moment appeared without, thankfully, shotgun in hand, proffered us a beer that looked suspiciously mass produced.

 

We had failed. We needed a new plan.

We decided that the only way left to us, was to follow tracks found in the forest on foot, to discard our modern machinery and head off into the forest fully provisioned for a 10-minute walk (family joke).

Our adventure did not start well. We had hardly gone 10 meters before our female members needed a break. Luckily a well designed local amenity was at hand…

 

With some gentle persuasion and not a little swearing, we set off once more.

Our next stop was an ancient stone refuge with wooden roof, rumoured to once belong to our quarry.

 

From there, we followed a narrow track deep into the forest, heading up stream until we found an old but working flour mill, clearly constructed without use of modern tools. At last! A real clue!

 

Crossing the stream, we climbed steeply uphill until finding a wood store containing freshly cut wood. Our pulses hammering, (part exhilaration, part being completely knackered), we continued on until stumbling into a small garden and, more importantly, its owner. Both of us were somewhat shocked, myself because I never really thought we could possibly achieve our goal, and he because he had not seen another human (apart from his wife who then came meekly out to join us) in many years.

 

Well, a couple of days anyway…

Our hunt was a success. This cabin had built 32 years ago by this couple after living previously in the refuge we had earlier discovered. They had survived there totally self-sufficiently, raising and educating eight children, all of whom had now left for pastures greener (literally, 5 have become shepherds). They produced or made all their own food without the use of electricity or modern machinery. They kept their own goats, fowl, rabbits etc and had only recently lost their horse.

'Mitten’, for this was his name, now at the age of 65, once a mathematician, had built the house and everything in and around it, including his own glasses! His wife Natalie brought out some gorgeous home made-lemonade to celebrate our arrival.

Annick was so excited she immediately blurted out several slightly impertinent questions such as “Is it true you have eight children?” and “Is there nothing else to do here?”

We discovered that they had come as a group of like-minded friends to escape the chains of civilisation, she a young actress with much to live for. They had helped each other build houses (one of which burnt to the ground, so they simply rebuilt it) gradually moving apart to achieve even further isolation. They had chosen this spot deep in the forest on the side of a steep valley because… well, frankly I’ve no idea really. It seems a little daft to me, but maybe I’m wrong. They pay no taxes of any kind but live as one with the forest. Their home in winter is completely cut off from any hope of reaching the nearest village.

They were clearly very happy.

We left with an air of euphoria having achieved our goal and maybe because of something in the lemonade…

On our return to base-camp, several hours later (something fairly typical for my 10-minute walks) we sat around the table to discuss our momentous find. We had so many remaining questions as to how they could survive in such an isolated place. And I mean seriously isolated.

 

We will one day return to ask those remaining questions.

Like, what to you do with a bloody great dead horse in the middle of the forest?

Wednesday 6 May 2015

A Medieval Bastide

Moving to the North of Montauban will mean living in a region called Quercy, full of history and, well, loads of Bastides.


Nah, not swearing, simply a description of a fortified town built in the middle ages, of which, incidentally, Montauban was one of the first. There are bucket-loads of them around here including Puycelci, Bruniquel, Codes-sur-ciel all of which we have visited many times. This time it was the turn of Lauzerte, a first for us, a Bastide only 25 minutes from our new pad. There are many more…



This Bastide is full of varied and stunning architecture with a beautiful central square..



beautiful houses…




lots of colours…




and steeped in history. For more on the history and loads more photos, click here.


It is yet another fascinating place to soak up the atmosphere, and a couple of beers…



That’s Annick and Ruth slurping and absorbing…


I love this place.


Phil

Sunday 3 May 2015

Late-Life Crisis

The mid-life crisis passed me by without my succumbing to the age-old wish to buy a motorbike. I am told that this urge is a way to recapture one’s youth. Well, it is true that I had a motorbike in my youth, but I’m not too sure that I wanted to recapture those moments.

My prize possession was a Royal Enfield 250. It cost me 25 quid to buy, and more buckets of sweat and tears than you can shake a stick at to keep it going (hmmm… a strange but beguiling metaphor…)

Thanks to my dear brother throwing a spanner in the works by proving, beyond doubt, to Mum & Dad that motorbikes are not good for your health, I was not allowed to buy one. However, being a little rebel (nah) I secretly bought one whilst at university without them knowing.

Well, of course they new. The complex web of deceit such as driving up from London and parking the bike around the corner, cannot have been too effective considering my backpack then had to conceal my crash helmet etc. In the good old tradition of not talking about elephants in the room, the subject was discreetly avoided, leading to the ‘Bizarre Incident in Burtons’.

Both Mum and Dad could see that I needed a protective jacket, but would not speak of why it was necessary. Whilst selecting a jacket in Burtons in Letchworth high street, the shop assistant enquired if the purchase was to be used for riding a motorbike. The response from all three of us was a word lying somewhere between ‘yes’ and ‘no’ and sounding more like a cat giving birth…

Being a cheap heap of junk owned by someone who didn’t know the front end of an engine from the rear, my not-so-prize possession spent more time in pieces than on the road (always with a couple of spare bits left over on reconstruction). Each morning consisted of the ritual ‘starting of the motor’. Normal kick-starting rarely worked (electrical ignition was but a dream in those pre-Cambrian days). Luckily (or not) I then lived in digs at the top of a hill. Pushing the bike down the hill to bump start it was easy. Pushing the bloody thing back up when it refused to start was not…

The end was nigh when on a trip north of London to see my cousin Valerie, I noticed that the thick black smoke emanating from the exhaust pipe, that had been annoying me for some time (and those behind me), finally stopped. This, I thought. was good news! Presumably whatever had been wrong had miraculously healed itself!

Nope.

The resulting lack of any oil at all caused the engine to explode in a pitiful example of a damp squib. Thus I discovered what a ‘big-end’ was.

Therefore; no. The urge to buy a motorbike in middle-age was dampened by my memories of reality.

Then arrives ‘late-age’…

Why oh why did I not buy one of these amazing machines before? It is powerful, feels fast (but isn’t) gets you anywhere (almost) and is amazingly stable. The small fact that they are statistically more likely to kill you than a motorbike seems of little relevance. My decision to stay safe by not going off-road lasted all of twenty seconds.

This thing gets you places inaccessible to anything other than horses or feet. And what does that mean? Photo-opportunities!

A couple of days ago I went with Kim & Mike right to the top of the local Pyrénées (the ridge Artigescou) where the views were absolutely totally stunning!

Driving the length of the ridge then abandoning quad for feet took us to sights seen by few people…

The sights were so overwhelming that Mike nearly attempted flight…

Well, I suspect this is to be the first of many quad-based photo-outings, so be prepared for the inevitable.

Now I must train my two hounds to follow without destroying the local wildlife…

Best wishes and à bientôt!

Phil