Our last three nights in Tanzania were to be extremely remote and remarkable indeed. After several intense days on safari, it was time to chill.
The Mahale Mountains National Park is at the western extremity of the country, on the shores of Lake Tanganyika.
Roads? There are none. The only access is by crossing the country in a small plane and then by boat from the short and slightly scary airstrip to the Greystoke Mahale camp.
It's a long trip, but a couple of years shorter than it would have been a hundred years or so ago. It is oh so worth it. It is not just an amazing camp, it is also smack-bang next to the largest known colony of chimpanzees on planet earth.
The camp is both beautiful and relaxing. There were only five other couples there with us, plus the amazing staff. Great food, great comfort, there can be few places like this on earth.
The mornings of the two full days we spent there were used in search of our quarry, our closest living non-human relatives, the chimps. There are about 800 chimpanzees in the mountain rainforests behind the camp. Most are left completely wild, but one troop of about 70 individuals are habituated to humans, although they generally ignored us completely.
On each day we had excellent sightings of the chimps over a long period, thanks to our guide Butati. A total of one hour's contact on each day was spread out to make the mornings fascinating and absorbing.
Watching the antics of the youngsters was a thrill.
Being close to the alpha male, humbling.
Watching their interaction, you realise how close to we humans they are. Agression, empathy, love, it's all there.
Whether sitting thinking...
or simply hanging around...
these creatures are full of expression...
The differences between us are minor compared to the similarities. Genetically, they are nearly identical. Most evolutionary changes involve epigenetics (changes in the gene switches) rather than actual gene mutation. Look at them and you are looking at us.
Their social interactions are complex, but very similar to our own. I could have stayed there watching them for a very long time, but visits are strictly limited so as not to interfere with their normal lives. We were priveledged indeed to be there.
The afternoons were spent winding down, the evenings eating, drinking and being merry. That I can do...
With much regret we left Mahale to head home. Nearly 10 days in Tanzania. But leaving, for me, is not the end. The small matter of nearly 7,000 photos taken whilst there was to be real compensation. So far I've whittled them down to about 250.
I hope you enjoyed them.
If you have nothing better to do, I've shoved all the photos from the safari into one place here. I'll undoubtedly be adding more in the coming months.
Thank you Tanzania, you are a truly amazing country.
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