A Fortnight in the Wild: Chapter 1

In Arusha

"In Tanzania, it was more than one hundred tribal units which lost their freedom; it was one nation that regained it."

Julius Nyerere

"An adventure every day please" we asked of Ian, our guide and friend of many years.

"Take care what you ask for" responded the universe...

Previous chapter 'Into Africa' here.

We had escaped, if but for two weeks, from the intense, climate changing heat of home. Forty degrees plus is something best experienced by not being there. Africa, at first sight, may not appear to you to be the ideal environment to escape such heat, but you'd be wrong.

Upon landing at Kilimanjaro Airport, deep in the heart of Africa, extra layers of clothing were quickly added. Then followed the laborious process of getting through health checks (they check your temperature by pointing a gun at your head) and then customs (filling in interminable paperwork all stating the same endless details that no one will ever read). I do hope it ends up as something useful. 

Bog-rolls spring to mind.

As the queues ground slowly towards freedom, I felt sympathy for all those Brits that will soon have to do the same thing just to get out of their own country to get into their own continent. Poetic justice for some. Actual injustice for most of us.

So far, after having spent all day on planes crammed together with masses of virus-shedding humanity, in-dispersed with endless queueing along with masses of even more virus-shedding humanity, it would be difficult to describe the day as an adventure; more of a monotony. Adventure was yet to come. Monotony was alleviated by modern tech (in the form of phones, tablets and bottles of wine) and frequent visits to the loo (possibly due to the bottles of wine).

We had arrived in the correct number of pieces with all of our minimal luggage. Spoiler alert: this luck was not to last...

Once emotionally reunited with Ian, we set off on our first adventure. 

That of driving in the dark on the roads of Arusha.

This photo is somewhat misleading. For one thing, this picture was taken in the day. At 6:30pm the sun plummets out of the sky, and all is dark. The only lights on the roads are those on some of the vehicles infecting Tanzanian roads. Many seem to think headlights to be an optional extra. 

This photo also infers that the roads are empty. They are not. I waited a long time to get this shot, as standing in the middle of the road amidst normal traffic is a once in a lifetime experience.

Of course, most roads are not as wide and flat as this one. Although road markings and traffic lights exist, they appear to be mostly ignored. In Tanzania, most people drive on the left. But only 'most' people. Driving at night with cars hurtling towards you on your side of the road with no lights can, I feel, rightly be described as an adventure.

This picture more accurately shows the streets of Arusha. Dirt roads, but clean roads (appart from the dirt...).

We were to spend a couple of nights at our friends home...

Their house is splendid, although unfinished. A kitchen would be a great addition. Ian has been gradually building it as he amasses enough money for a few more bricks. Thankfully architects fees are zero and planning permission does not exist. And building regs? 

Don't make me laugh.

Their garden is full of life. You plant a tree and it grows in front of your eyes. And the birds! All these photos were taken in the space of fifteen minutes.

In between being wined and dined we did manage a walk around the neighbourhood, passing a great deal of building work in various stages of ruin and, more importantly, past 'forests' of my favourite 'fruit'; coffee beans.

We passed by the kids school...

Many of the schools, such as this one, are private. State schools do exist, but with over a hundred kids in each class, many parents choose private. A very significant cost to parents there, hard hit by the pandemic.

The kids love it and are thriving. They are the future. 

We also visited a recycling centre...

...with which I was extremely impressed. I had expected the usual tat, but discovered a rich, caring, working environment for the disabled while recycling waste at the same time. We could learn much from this place.

Our stay was coming to an end, we were to leave the next morning for the local airstrip.

Say farewell to the most welcoming family ever! We miss them already!

We will be back.

That night we slept safe and sound, ready for our flight into the Serengeti.

Into the Endless Plain.

Into nature, red in tooth and claw.

Next Chapter Into the Serengeti