A Fortnight in the Wild: Chapter 4

The First Crossing.

Previous chapter: There be Monsters - here

The wildebeest teetered upon the edge of a precipice. They clearly wanted to cross but they clearly didn't want to be the first one to do so. Wildebeest are followers, not leaders.

This did not appear to be a huge herd, there was little pressure from behind, but there was tension in the air.

A few more descended to the beach. A few wandered away. The beach was wide here. Plenty of space without the need for pushing or shoving.

Were they just going to take a drink, or were they going to take the plunge?

The herd above was getting bigger. New bodies were coming out of the forests, pressure was building up. They were beginning to jump.

The tipping point was about to be reached, the wildebeest in front had entered the water. 

Up to this point, the custom amongst the guides is to keep the jeeps well back from the edge of the river until the crossing has actually begun, otherwise it would simply put off those thinking of crossing. However, once the crossing starts, all bets are off and there is a surge towards the banks of the river to get the best view, but never to impede the view of someone already there. Ian is a master of this and knows exactly where to head for. Others just follow in what can only be described as a stampede. 

Strangely enough, this was exactly what was happening to the wildebeest at that exact same moment. 

The crossing is not in any way an organised rush. It is a true stampede. Once the first enter the water the cries from the wildebeest change, and the whole herd gets infected with the same panic, the same adrenaline rush, the same mind-consuming need to RUN!

In the few seconds it took for us to fly to the waters edge, the river was full:

A mass of bodies, all with one thing in mind, to get to the other side. A mass of bodies, but each one an individual fighting for its own survival by mindlessly heading along with everyone else to that distant beach. Just like when the French go on their summer holidays.

What looks to be mass insanity, actually has huge evolutionary advantages. To cross one at a time in a quiet orderly way would simply be mass suicide. The crocodiles could just take their time and kill the whole lot of them. The downside for the crocs would be, well, no food next year. As they eat only once a year that would also be an extinction event for them. Instead, a mass stampede makes it much more difficult for these underwater predators. Which one to attack? How to avoid a few thousand stamping hooves? Thus the vast majority of wildebeest cross unharmed. Only a very few get killed or injured. A very few deaths means nothing to evolution and is a boon to Mother Nature.

But the struggle is intense.

And for the young, it is much worse. It is everyone for themselves, and for the young this means that they are more of a target, struggle more to swim, struggle more to get out.

When the water is shallow, it's fun.

But the Mara's depths are unpredictable. All they can see is the surface. Every crossing has its deep part...

And that's where the crocs lie in wait...

Along with the wildebeest are many many zebra. They coexist with the wildebeest having different but compatible eating habits. They are fewer in number, but join in with each stampede. Their approach does involve more thought. 

Is it really safe?

Do we really want to cross?

Nah.

Ok. Maybe...

Yes! But me first!

Into the deep...

Nearly there!

And out.

And away!

Meanwhile, a second herd of wildebeest had heard of the party and wanted in!

Whilst at the other side of the river...

...the beach side had been reached...

...to access pastures new.

This was the first of the crossings we were privileged to see. All those beasts that entered got to the other side with all their original bits intact. No blood. No guts. No broken bits hanging off. 

La vie est belle.

But it is not always thus...

For us, the experience was profound. Well, maybe not as profound as for the actual participants, but all the same it was emotionally draining.

And after being emotionally drained, its time to eat...

We didn't even have to hang around in deep parts of the river grabbing hold of passing raw food...

We had already achieved our goal. We had seen a crossing on our second day there. Would we see more?

Oh yes, we bloody well would...
 

Next Chapter Don't Go That Way